eyebrow color theory

Livestream Script: Eyebrow Color Theory — You Should Know This!

Opening Hook

Hey everyone, welcome back! Today’s topic is something every PMU artist should master — eyebrow color theory.
Good pigments are chosen, not made. If you’ve ever had issues like color turning gray, red, or fading too fast — trust me, it’s not just your technique, it’s your pigment choice and color matching. So today, let’s really break it down together.

 


 

 Part 1: The Color Theory You Must Know

1. Pigment Formula Types

Let’s start with the basics — the formula of pigments.
There are three main types: organic, inorganic, and hybrid.

Organic pigments — These have vibrant colors and small molecules, so they penetrate easily and show color fast. But they can also faint quicker or shift tone if not stabilized.

Inorganic pigments — These are mineral-based, using iron oxides or titanium dioxide. They’re more stable, natural-looking, and fade softly over time.

Hybrid pigments — The best of both worlds. They mix organic brightness with inorganic stability, giving natural yet vivid results. Perfect for most eyebrow work today.

If you’re a beginner, always start with hybrid pigments — they’re forgiving and stable.

2. Pigment Texture (State)

Next, let’s talk about pigment texture — how the pigment feels and behaves.

We usually see 4 textures:

Liquid: very watery, absorbs fast; great for machine work.

Fluid Cream: balanced texture; good flow and coverage for machine and microblading.

Semi Cream: thicker, gives precise control and less splatter — loved by most brow artists.

Cream/Paste: thick texture, used for manual microblading for microblading & microshading.

Choose your texture based on your technique and machine type.

3. Pigment Solution Type

Now, what’s the base solution? It affects pigment behavior on skin.

Nano / Neo Water-Based: small particles soft texture, easy to absorb, great for advanced artists.

Powder-Based: more solid particles, medium size gives stronger retention and crisp pixels.

Mineral /In Cream Oil Baste: Big size particles;delicate microblading lines.  — stays longer but needs experienced control.

4. Base Tone of Pigments

Every pigment has a base tone — it’s either warm, cool, or neutral.

Warm Base: contains red, orange, white; used to neutralize gray or ashy skin tones.

Cool Base: contains blue or green; helps on warm, reddish undertones.

Neutral Base: balanced — suitable for most clients.contains more yellow

If your client’s skin tone is cool (pink or bluish), use a warm base pigment.
If the skin tone is warm (yellow or olive), use a cooler pigment to balance.
Neutral skin? You can go with either neutral or slightly warm pigments for the most natural look.

5. Skin Tone Matching

Here’s a simple matching guide:

Skin Tone

Undertone

Recommended Base

Example Pigment Shades

Fair / Pink

Cool

Warm base

Warm Brown, Soft Chocolate

Medium / Neutral

Balanced

Neutral base

Mocha, Taupe

Olive / Tan

Warm

Cool base

Ash Brown, Dark Coffee

Deep / Dark

Warm

Neutral or Cool

Espresso, Dark Chocolate

Always test a small patch before committing — what looks dark in the bottle can heal 20–30% lighter.

 


 Part 2: 30 Questions Clients Always Ask (with Answers)

Q1: Why does my healed color look gray?
�� Usually, your pigment base was too cool or the client’s skin was dry or overworked. Choose a warmer base pigment next time.Or add one drop of orange to balance.

Q2: Why does pigment fade so fast?
�� Low saturation or too much bleeding during work. Try liquid texture with machine for better retention.

Q3: Can I mix different brands?
�� It’s not recommended — different bases can react. Stick to one brand line.

Q4: How long do pigments last in skin?
�� Usually 1.5–3 years, depending on pigment type and skin metabolism.

Q5: Can I mix organic and inorganic pigments?
�� Yes, that’s actually what a hybrid pigment is — they’re premixed for balance.

Q6: Why does my pigment heal reddish?
�� Too much iron oxide red, or you worked too shallow. Neutralize with a greenish or gray-correcting taupe next time.

Q7: Why does it turn bluish or grayish?
�� Pigment penetrated too deep, or cool tone used on cool skin. Use a warmer pigment base.

Q8: What pigment is best for oily skin?
�� Powder or fluid-cream formula — less spreading, better color hold.

Q9: How to choose a pigment for dry skin?
�� Fluid cream or hybrid type; better hydration and even absorption machine.

Q10: How do I fix purple or gray brows?
�� Use a warm corrector like orange or red-orange for neutralization.

Q11: What pigment should beginners start with?
�� Hybrid pigments — stable, forgiving, and easy to control.

Q12: Do all pigments oxidize?
�� Yes, slightly. But good formulas stabilize quickly within 1–2 days.

Q13: Can I use lip pigments on eyebrows?
�� No. The molecule and formula differ — lip pigments are brighter and softer.

Q14: Can I add glycerin to pigment myself?
�� Not recommended; it changes viscosity and saturation balance.

Q15: What’s the difference between cool brown and warm brown?
�� Cool brown has more ash/green base; warm brown has more red/orange base.

Q16: Which pigments suit blonde clients?
�� Light warm browns or taupe; avoid dark cool tones.

Q17: How to make color lighter?
�� Add a drop of white or yellow-based pigment.

Q18: How to make color darker?
�� Add espresso or dark brown tone gradually.

Q19: Why does pigment look different in bottle vs on skin?
�� Because skin undertone and pigment oxidation change the appearance.

Q20: What pigment should I use for male clients?
�� Neutral or cool brown; avoid red-based pigments.

Q21: Can I use pigments past expiration?
�� No — stability and safety can’t be guaranteed.you can use it for practice new skills

Q22: What’s the ideal pigment temperature for storage?
�� Cool, dark place under 25°C, away from sunlight.

Q23: Why do pigments separate in bottle?
�� Normal — just shake well before use.

Q24: Can I dilute pigments?
�� Yes, with the same brand thinner only.

Q25: Why does healed color look uneven?
�� Skin absorption or needle depth inconsistency.

Q26: What’s the best pigment for machine shading?
�� Liquid or fluid cream with hybrid base.

Q27: What’s the best pigment for hairstrokes?
�� Powder-based pigment; better color control and precision for beginners.Water-based pigment ,best penetration for advanced artists

Q28: Do pigments change color under sun exposure?
�� Yes, UV can fade or shift tones. Advise clients on SPF use.

Q29: Can pregnant clients get PMU?
�� No — always avoid due to hormonal changes and safety concerns.

Q30: How do I neutralize old red brows?
�� Use olive or gray-green corrector first, then reapply neutral tone later.

 


 

Closing (Call to Action)

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