How to Choose the Right Pigment for Eyebrow Tattoo: 5 Steps by Charming Tattoo
Introduction
Choosing the right pigment for eyebrow tattoo is one of the most critical decisions a PMU artist makes — and it depends entirely on your technique, your client’s skin, and the pigment formula. In this guide, Gabby from Charming Tattoo walks through 5 steps to help you select the perfect pigment for microblading, hairstroke brows, and nano brows.
Step 1: Know Your Eyebrow Tattoo Technique
Microblading Brows
A manual blade tool creates hair-stroke patterns in the skin. Results last 1–2 years. Works best with oil-based (inorganic) pigments that are easy to pick up on the blade.
Hairstroke Brows (Pixel Stroke Brows)
Machine work with a cartridge needle at under 4 volts, with slow hand movement. Produces airy, natural-looking strokes. Suitable for beginners transitioning from microblading to machine. Best paired with hybrid (powder-based) pigments.
Nano Brows
Machine work at 5–6 volts with fast hand movement, producing smooth, precise lines. An advanced technique requiring excellent hand control and a light, steady touch. Best paired with water-based organic pigments in a single pass. ⚠️ Not recommended for beginners — the pigment implants easily and going too deep can cause color to turn blue.
Step 2: Understand the Three Pigment Formula Types
Drop each pigment into water to instantly identify its formula type:
Oil-Based Pigment (Inorganic / Semi-Cream)
- Drops rapidly to the bottom of water
- Large pigment molecules, high glycerin content
- Easy to pick up on a microblade
- Best for microblading and microshading; can be used with machine when diluted
- Lasts approximately 1–2 years
Powder-Based Pigment (Hybrid Liquid)
- Drops to the middle of water, then spreads gradually
- Medium particle size, low glycerin content
- Flows smoothly through PMU machine needles
- Best for hairstroke brows; forgiving formula, less risk of faint or blowout
- Lasts approximately 2 years
Water-Based Pigment (Organic Liquid)
- Spreads immediately across the surface of water, coloring the entire bottle
- Nano-sized pigment molecules
- Single-pass application — one stroke deposits full color
- Best for nano brows, hairstroke brows, and powder brows with light hand
- Lasts 3+ years with no retention issues
- ⚠️ Requires advanced technique — easy to implant too deep for beginners
Step 3: Match Your Pigment to Your Technique
| Technique | Recommended Formula | Lasts |
|---|---|---|
| Microblading / Microshading | Oil-Based (Inorganic) | 1–2 years |
| Hairstroke Brows | Powder-Based (Hybrid) | ~2 years |
| Nano Brows | Water-Based (Organic) | 3+ years |
Step 4: How to Identify Organic vs. Inorganic vs. Hybrid Pigments
Method 1 — Check the CI Number on the bottle or MSDS:
- All CI numbers starting with 77 = Inorganic (e.g. CI 77491, CI 77266*)
- CI numbers that are not 77 = Organic (e.g. CI 56110)
- A mix of 77 and non-77 numbers = Hybrid pigment
*Note: CI 77266 (Black 2) is the exception — it starts with 77 but is classified as organic.
Method 2 — Check the Texture:
- Apply pigment to skin. Oily texture = inorganic formula (large molecules require glycerin as solvent)
- Fluid texture = hybrid or organic formula
Step 5: Know Your Client’s Skin Color and Undertone
By Skin Color (Fitzpatrick Scale):
- Fitzpatrick 1–2 (Pale skin): Light brown or blonde tones work best
- Fitzpatrick 3–4 (Medium skin, most common in Asia): Medium brown, dark brown, or golden brown — the most popular range
- Fitzpatrick 5–6 (Dark skin): Very dark brown or black tones — lighter colors won’t show or retain well
By Skin Undertone:
Method 1 — Vein test: Look at the veins on your wrist. Blue veins = cool/pink undertones. Green veins = warm/yellow undertones. Both = neutral.
Method 2 — Jewelry test: Silver jewelry suits cool-toned skin. Gold jewelry suits warm-toned skin. Both suit neutral skin.
Method 3 — Sun reaction: Skin that tans easily = warm undertone. Skin that burns easily = cool undertone.
Charming Tattoo Recommended Pigment Collections
Hairstroke Collection (Hybrid / EU REACH Compliant)
Warm-toned, EU REACH certified pigments — no excessive carbon black, no risk of turning blue. Certified by German laboratory.
- Latte Brown — Neutral brown with subtle yellow undertones. Versatile base or liner color. No reddening or bluing over time.
- Sandy Brown — Natural warm brown for soft, gradient effects.
- Toffee Brown — Warm brown with yellow undertones. Ideal for ombre brows or natural hair strokes.
- Espresso Brown — Deep coffee tone for clients who prefer strong, defined brows.
- Amber Brown — Warm, vibrant light brown for a natural, bright finish.
Nano Brows Collection (Water-Based / One-Pass Organic)
Fast implantation, single-pass application, lasts 3+ years. Suitable for hairstroke brows, nano brows, and ombre brows.
- Black Brown — For strokes and darker power brows. Best for older clients, darker complexions and hair.
- Dark Brown — Universal color for dark brown hair. Add a skin tone to neutralize and avoid redness.
- Deep Brown — Intermediate brown. Beautiful when mixed with dark brown or dark ash brown.
- Golden Brown — Universal yellow and ash-based brown. Natural and versatile.
- Pace Brown — Yellow-based. Ideal for fair skin as a main stroke color.
- Taupe — Promotes collagen formation and stabilizes color. Excellent blending color.
About Charming Tattoo
Charming Tattoo is a professional permanent makeup pigment factory based in Guangzhou, China, with over 22 years of OEM/ODM manufacturing experience since 2002. We help artists and brands develop their own private-label PMU pigment lines — from custom formulation to branded packaging. Contact us directly if you are building your own brand or launching a new PMU product collection.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What pigment is best for nano brows?
A: Water-based organic pigment is best for nano brows. Its nano-sized particles allow single-pass color deposit lasting 3+ years — but it requires advanced technique to avoid going too deep.
Q: How can I tell if a pigment is organic or inorganic?
A: Check the CI number on the bottle or MSDS. All CI numbers starting with 77 are inorganic. Non-77 numbers are organic. A mix of both indicates a hybrid pigment.
Q: Which pigment formula is best for beginners?
A: Hybrid (powder-based) pigment is the most forgiving for beginners and artists transitioning from microblading to machine work.
Q: Can oil-based pigment be used with a PMU machine?
A: Yes, but it must be diluted first. It is primarily designed for microblading and microshading.
Q: Are Charming Tattoo pigments EU REACH compliant?
A: Yes. Our hairstroke collection is EU REACH certified, verified by a German laboratory.
